Hiking Chang Shan in Dali: Routes Explained
Ok, once in Dali, you cannot help but staring at that towering mountain range, just to your side. It is there to invite and protect, and it’s calling all of your senses to hike it. Problem is, it is not as easy as it used to be, if you are not aware of the big changes happened in Dali. Three years ago, there was no such thing as a new cable car, with new Chinese built pavilions and Asian fairy-tale environment. Today, this is one of the city’s main attractions, generating a swarm of touts, guesthouse workers and random folks offering you all sorts of tour deals and tickets. It is quite hard to make sense of this, but I’ve been there now and before, done that twice, and able to share.
Tickets unfortunately, what used to be an almost free of charge adventure has been transformed into a commercial frenzy, but luckily still retains its charm. There are two tickets: one for the Chan Shan park conservation fees (30 yuan) and one for the cable car. One way is an outrageous 50 yuan, and two ways is sold for 80 yuan. At the booth, of course. It seems like all sorts of people in the Old Town might be able to get you tickets for cheaper, generally a cable car return ticket for 60 yuan. I met someone who scored return ticket and park conservation fee for a total of 70 yuan. So look around, talk with people, and let the touts explain their offers, because it can pay back. Anyways, it is expensive.
The Circuit if you got a return ticket, generally you will be taken to the start of the new cable car, some 6 kilometers outside of town. Get up, stroll around the nice Qinbi stream, and then you have two options: walk back across a sealed path all the way to the old cable car located near Zhong He temple (a 13 kilometers trek) or get down from the same side and make your way back into town flagging down a bus or catching a taxi. If you walk, you’ll get to the other side in around 4 hours, nicely walking a flat path snaking its way along the cliffs. The views are stunning on a clear day, stretching out all the way to the Eastern side of the lake. Once at Zhong He temple, which itself is a nice piece of older, worn out architecture and makes great pictures, you can get a cable car down and easily walk downhill for 15 minutes reaching the western gate of the Old Town. A nice way to spend a day enjoying Dali’s picturesque setting.
The Old Way: cheaper, and more adventurous Let’s face it, two cable cars sound like no effort at all, and no adventure. If you are of the same idea, just reach the West gate of the Old Town on foot, and walk up. Cross the main road and keep on walking west. You will find directions for the old chairlift (not a cable car, and infinitely more rewarding, coming to scenic views), follow that road up hill and start your ascent here. At the right of the chairlift entrance the roads forks up right and the real ascent to Zhong He temple starts there. A forest police booth will be waiting at the junction: this is the time to pay your 30rmb park conservation fees. If you have, try to show an international student card, it proved useful in quite a few places during my travels in China.
The hike is not too strenuous, but not even too easy, as it snakes up the mountain side crossing the chairlift path on many occasions. You can charter a horse to go up, which makes an interesting trip by itself, but the price is all up to negotiation. Otherwise, be prepared to walk for around two hours before reaching the Zhong He temple entrance. From here, you could venture west along the path leading to the other end of the cable car, but be advised that from here, there are no paths going down the mountain. It is much better if you stick to the first part of the path, which also have the best views on the lake. At this point, if you are really tired, you can also decide to splash out some of your cash and take the chairlift down.
Chan Shan is a very good way to experience the high views of Dali. Behind Zhong He temple there is also a guesthouse lodge where you can stay, and indulge in the alpine forest atmosphere. A pavilion in front of te temple serves as a tea house with fantastic views over the lake and the clouds… after all, you are in Yun Nan, which means “South of the Clouds”… what better way to enjoy them, if not looking at them from Chan Shan?
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