Yungang Caves: Majestic Chinese Art in Datong, Shanxi
The North of China hides some very beautiful surprises. A cluster of provinces known for their vast, flat landscapes: they were the battlefields of many clashes between the Chinese dynasties and the Mongol empires from the North …they have to hide something special. If you are looking to dive into history and you are travelling westwards outside of Beijing, linger no further and head to Datong, Shanxi province, one of the last outposts before the grasslands of Inner Mongolia.
First of all, why Datong? At first sight, it might appear as a quite hard city to love. Industrial areas spring up everywhere, the surrounding plains are swept by cold winds, creating a feel of frontier town. So, what is so nice to see around here? Well, besides being an industrial town, a crossroad between the central part of Northern China and its northernmost upper reaches, Datong hides the stunning Yungang caves, a World Heritage Site.
Started in year 450 AD, Yungang is a relic of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534). One kilometre of rock carved to perfection, in the tradition of other contemporary Indian Gandhara Buddhist art, the stone at Yungang is an amazing cultural blend which is rare to find elsewhere in China. Yes, the Longmen caves, but the kind of art is different. Yungang caves are a very particular blend of Buddhist art with Chinese traits, and they are particularly stunning. If I should make a comparison, I might hazard to say that the caves in Ellora, India, are the closest thing I saw on Earth. Yungang is a special place, and any trip in-between Beijing and the vast heart of central China should have a stop there. Be careful tough, and try to plan your visit for a spring/summer visit because this area is famous for its freezing cold. I’ve been there, and can testify that!! Even wearing thick gloves, my fingers were frozen…
How To get There
From Beijing, several trains go directly to Datong or stop there on the way to Hohhot, Inner Mongolia. Sleeper train is the way to go, covering the distance in a night, and reaching Datong in the morning. It is possible to do Datong as a day trip from Beijing taking night trains coming and going, but it is very difficult to reserve sleeping berths on the return leg of the tip, because there are virtually no Beijing bound trains originating in Datong, and getting tickets can become a problem.
There are, however, several buses going to Beijing which prove to be a good solution to avoid getting stranded in Datong if you do not desire to.
To the caves
Take bus No. 4 at Datong Railway Station and get off at Xin Kai Li. Then transfer to bus No. 3-1 to Yungang Caves. Or, take bus 17 in front of the main branch of bank of China in town, and you will get to the caves. From Xin Kai Li junction is around 25 minutes by bus to the caves. Otherwise, it is possible to organize a tour with private car if you travel in a group of at least 4 people. Usually, a popular option is provided by the CITS office inside Datong train station. They can provide a car with driver to visit the caves, and from there go to the other local attraction, the beautiful Hanging Monastery.
The Hanging Monastery is a great piece of history: literally, it is a monastery carved into a cliff. The climb to the gate offer definitely great views of the surrounding mountains, but it is when you walk the pathways along its suspended bridges that your efforts to get here are fully repaid. A must visit, the downside is the fact that The Hanging Monastery is extremely difficult to reach by public transportation: you might be able to get to the junction, but it’s very hard to find transportation to go back into Datong. Hitch hiking can prove to be very difficult, and most drivers would want to ask for money, being definitely aware of the fact that Datong is a loooooooong drive away, and you’d like better to shell out some cash rather than walk back in the freezing winds. Think about a tour, if you want to see both places in the same day, especially because getting back on time for the last Beijing bound bus can prove to be very stressful.
Good luck. You will be very impressed by the ancient giant statues peeking at you from the white, cold stones…
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