Adventure Travel in China

Dali, Yunnan: the Town of the Long Clouds

Post by Marco FerraresecloseAuthor: Marco Ferrarese Name: Marco Ferrarese
Email: info@monkeyrockworld.com
About: Marco Ferrarese has been teaching English, living and travelling around East, South and South East Asia since 2007. An underground musician and writer for many years, he has lived in Europe, the USA, China and Australia and is currently based in Malaysia. He has explored 22 of the 34 provinces by train, foot, rickshaw and any other overland form of transportation. He writes for CnAdventure Blog and has published a book about his Chinese adventures in Italian language.See Authors Posts (32)

This post will take you back to Yunnan, one of my favorite Chinese travel destinations and a land where so much culture, ethnic blend and adventure await the traveller. Strategically positioned in between Kunming and Lijiang, Dali Old Town is one of those few cities in China where you can still experience the ancient fortifications, the cobbled streets and the bustle of another time, still savoring some of the best modern foods, beers and entertainment. Similarly to Yangshuo, the tourist development here has left the ancient city unscratched, but has created an infrastructure of commodities which is definitely unmatched in other travel destinations in China. Dali is probably one of the few places where the relaxed backpacker-friendly atmosphere of Southeast Asia blends in with the idea of China you can get from those ancient prints adorning the walls of every Chinese restaurant the world over. Rolling mountains, misty peaks, long clouds and people wearing woven hats.
I want to suggest the best places to visit for an unforgettable stay in Dali. These four attractions alone might as well take up the best part of a week, if savored slowly, or could be overtaken in three days at a faster pace. But remember, whatever you do and wherever you have to go after, there is no place like Yunnan anywhere else. Indulgence is definitely needed…you won’t regret my advice…

The Old Town
One of the best places to eat, drink and shopping for bargains, the Old town keeps a hidden city charm, graced by original walls and bell towers making it one of the most beautiful in China. Dining from one of the small restaurants lining the second floors of most buildings is a great way to get a bird’s eye view of everyday life in this incredible corner of the world… sellers, ethnic minority groups from the mountains of Yunnan and travelers from all over the world meet in this town where the nights are never dull… sign of modern times blending with the old suggestions, it is important to remember that this is one of the most liberal cities in China, and it is here that the first gay friendly bar in the history of the Republic was founded. Be ready to be mesmerized by the differences of this amazing, bustling little town, and savor the colors of the lamplights after dark… one of the most romantic places in the world.

Three Pagodas Temple
Rising like blades from the ground, the Three White Pagodas are one of the most fascinating and unique sights in China. On a clear day, the silhouettes of the towering pagodas shine against a dramatic mountain backdrop, reflecting in a pool. The mastery of the architect designing such a place is forever remembered, being the Three Pagodas temple, at least to me, one of the most fascinating religious sites in the whole of China, and might easily top the blazoned Beijing’s attractions. The grounds are as wide and spectacular as the eternal cloudy sky above them. The pavilions containing golden Buddha statues are a mesmerizing experience, being each one of them carved in a different position. To reach this amazing site, just walk North along the main road, and after a scenic 1 kilometer walk, you will find the entrance on your left.

Cangshan Mountain
A great day hike easily reachable from the old town, just walking outside the gates and proceeding North along the main road to Xiaguan. The climb itself is an average 2 hours walk along densely forested slopes, giving great views of the valley and the Old City up to the Erhai Lake. If you do not fancy walking, you can charter a donkey with “driver” to get up the path from the mountain side, making it at least more adventurous than taking the cable car who can shuttle you on top of the peak for around 50 yuan. Besides great views, you will be able to visit some temples and, if properly equipped, decide to spend the night in one of the rest houses situated on top. “Jade-Cloud Road” is a magnificent walk along the highest slopes, snaking through forest and waterfalls, offering close encounters with the typical kind of flora existing  at this latitude.

Erhai Lake
Lying a few kilometres down south from the core of Dali Old Town, Erhai Lake is the perfect spot for relaxing, bird watching or simply biking around its shores, meeting friendly villagers willing to show you aspects of their daily lives. From the Northern gate of the Old Town, catch a southbound bus and just enjoy the ride: the road runs down the slope, and ends abruptly in front of the waterfront of this big, mysterious lake.  At 1.972 meters of altitude, this is the second biggest highland freshwater lake, and one of the seven biggest in China, with a length of 40 kilometres… if you plan on biking around it, tough, you better be prepared to overnight somewhere along its coast, since a full loop could easily make a 120 kilometres long road trip. Quite a lot to tackle in a  single day, for inexperienced bikers! Check how the fishmongers use cormorants to get fish, and just chill and enjoy the calm of its chilly waters… such a beautiful place!!