Longji Terraces, The Other Side of Yangshuo

People love to talk about Yangshuo, that particular destination putting Guanxi province on the tourist maps worldwide, but keeping with this hype they will overlook some of the province’s other great sites. The Longji Terraces are one of those, and the pick of the week for my China Adventure Travel destination.

Also known as Longsheng Rice Terraces because of their location in the Longsheng county of Guanxi province (about 100 kilometres north of Gulin, reachable in a couple hours drive), we all prefer the most evocative name Longji which, translated from Chinese pinyin, means “Dragon’s Backbone”. The mountain slopes, whose highest peak reaches 880 meters, are endlessly cut and carved with rice terraces resembling dragon’s scales, hence the poetic name. In clear days, the views are amazing, and from the top of the mountain it is possible to see the backbone of the dragon winding over endless curvy hills.

The beautiful aspect of a visit to the Longji Terraces is the fact that it can be a totally different experience if visited during each season. In fact, the mountain slopes have been cut over the years into different levels and shapes, and these days are obviously farmed as well: it is therefore possible to witness incredible light plays over layers of water glittering in the sun in the Spring, green rice shoots in the Summer, snaking paths of golden rice in the Fall, and layers of silvery frost in the Winter. Whatever season you choose, this region will be able to hook you deeply through the heart, stimulating your senses. Being it a breezy, foggy afternoon when the terraces are hidden behind a misty shade, or one of those hot days when the light is so strong to reflect enticing shadow plays on the watered terraces all around you, there won’t be a time you will regret.

The Minority Groups

An added charm is constituted by the presence of the Miao and Yao people, two of the 55 Ethnic Groups populating China. Having inhabited these areas for centuries, they still ply the same routes along the terraced mountains, and have of course adapted to the times and got involved in the tourist industry as well. For a first time visitor, although a bit touristy, it would be definitely interesting and fun to participate to one of the “improvised” marriage celebrations… one of the peculiarity of the women of this Ethnic group is the fact they cannot cut their hair. Therefore, they use to wrap their hair into long, huge braids, combing them on top of their heads. If you haven’t been warned, I am sure you would mistake it for a traditional hat.

Of course, besides the touristiest attractions, it is of course possible to venture a little bit further inside of the area, snaking your way along the terraced paths. This way, you would definitely be able to encounter a more genuine side of the Longji Terraces, meeting the people and observing the way they live, which is very far from the comforts of a Chinese city. Although tourism and progress have definitely hit this area like most other beautiful places in China and east Asia, the rewards for the adventurous soul willing to get off the beaten path, and cross those hills on foot, is incredibly rewarding. It is also possible to walk all the way to Guizhou from here, to experience a deeper understanding of South Central Chinese Ethnic reality, but you better consult a local experienced tour guide, because sometimes even the Hills, as a movie said, have Eyes…