Yuanyang: The Best Rice Terraces in China Part 2
Read previous post:The Best Rice Terraces in China Part1
I walk up a narrow staircase, all lined up with small concrete houses with little courtyards where swine roam free, the smell of savage and animal feces melting with the fresh September morning air, and I am welcomed by a mother holding her daughter, both waving at me. Instantly from the small house’s door a flock of bald, screaming kids get out and start circling around me, jumping and smiling. Some of them dance, another one starts punching and pushing a water buffalo that keeps munching on his grass, uncaring of those tiny, savage, furious fists. It’s like the dream of any traveler, getting to know a place for what it really is, and being warmly welcomed. This was the only time in Asia when, during my travels, I found such an atmosphere, like the ravaging tentacles of mass tourism still couldn’t reach there. But I reckon they silently will, now that people are actually telling about it.
The man of the house, a smiling middle aged fellow with darker skin and soft black hair crowning an innocent bald spot, came out of the door and invited me to go in and sit down. My Mandarin is very limited, so I could just say random things, complimenting the family and thanking for the hospitality as I walked through the doorstep. The darkness was almost total, unless broken by a little circle of daylight filtering from a very dusty window on the back wall. An older woman was sitting in the middle of the room, clutching the handles of a big wooden machine she was using to whip milk. The smell of dust, animals and human beings was strong. She waved at me and kept taking care of business, while two children came shyly out of the darkness and stopped in the center of the dim light with tiny smiles stapled around their lips. A foreign face was enough to discourage them from talking, or even moving, but the man gently pushed their backs so that they would come nearer, and we made formal presentations. It was like ET touching fingers with his human buddy, I might have been one of the few white fellows they’ve seen in their life up to that moment, and this kind of thrilled me.
They offered me a cup full of hot water and they poured some tea leaves in there too, it was too hot to handle so I put it down and I kept observing the surroundings; so many people living in such a small room, kind of bound to it, but blessed by a unique rural environment of families providing for each other. I emptied my glass slowly, for it was very hot, feeling warm eyes all over me and my friends. When it was time to go, the family asked me to take a picture with them and we posed in front of the doorstep, smiling, a crown of kids’ limbs behind me. Then it was time to go back to the road, passing next to other women dressed in traditional clothing and head scarves transporting wooden baskets full of weeds or small stones on their backs. I stopped and tried to figure out if you can still see something like this in my home country of Italy and then I realize that no, this is something that just belongs to the past. Or to an undefined dimension that makes some parts of the Greater Mekong area a place where you would say a bad wizard cast a spell, and time just slipped down the space in between the third and a fourth dimension.
In these moments, you feel lucky to be able to witness something like that in a world that is gradually losing its very own differences.
Please if you go to Yuanyang, try to preserve this spell, or just don’t go, it would be too sad for me to go back one day and see begging hands, instead of friendly locals willing to share a little part of their world with you, the incautious lao wai that just stumbled in.
Tags: China Hiking, China Travel, Main Attractions China Adventure, rice terraces, southwest China, yuanyang terraces, yunnan

























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